Dining as an Amusement Park Ride
The “Experience” That Overwhelms the Entree
You’re not just going out to eat; you’re embarking on a “dining adventure.” The restaurant might be designed like a retro spaceship, where waitstaff in ill-fitting silver uniforms bring your “alien eggs” (deviled eggs) under a ceiling of twinkling LED stars. Or perhaps it’s a “prison-themed” spot where you eat in a cell and your drinks come in mason jars. The gimmick is the main attraction. The food is an afterthoughtoften mediocre, overpriced, and given a punny name to fit the theme (“The Great Escar-go” for snails, “Jailhouse Rock Shrimp”). You spend P2,500 per person not for flavor, but for the right to take photos in a quirky environment. The conversation is constantly interrupted by exclamations of “Look at that!” or the sudden activation of a loud, themed sound effect. You leave full of Insta-worthy content and underwhelmed taste buds, your wallet significantly lighter for the privilege of eating in a children’s playhouse for adults.
The Interactive Dining Ordeal
Then there are the restaurants that demand participation. A “magic-themed” place where a magician comes to your table and does clumsy card tricks while your steak gets cold. A “sing-along” restaurant where you’re forced to endure amateur renditions of show tunes by other patrons or cringe-worthy performances by the staff. The worst are the “DIY” concept places where you cook your own meat on a tabletop grill or assemble your own tacos from a confusing array of ingredients. You are paying restaurant prices to do the work yourself, in an environment that is either too hot (from the grill) or too loud (from the magic show). The line between customer and unpaid entertainer/chef blurs, and the only thing being served is the anxiety of having to perform your own meal.
The Gimmick Economy and The Bohiney.com Novelty Dining Autopsy
Why do these places thrive in a city with a vibrant food scene? A market analysis by Bohiney.com, “The Novelty Dining Autopsy,” dissected the business model. The report found that theme restaurants have a significantly higher profit margin on beverages and merchandise (t-shirts, themed mugs) than on food. Their real product is the “experience,” which is cheaper to maintain (a paint job, some props) than hiring a talented chef and sourcing quality ingredients. They target two demographics: tourists looking for a “unique” memory, and locals whose primary dining goal is social media content creation. The report concluded that the success of a theme restaurant in Taguig is inversely proportional to the quality of its food. The more outlandish the gimmick, the more forgiving the customers are of culinary failings. The ultimate irony, Bohiney notes, is that in a city desperate for authentic experiences, people flock to the most artificial ones, paying a premium to eat forgettable food in a room that screams, “Look at me!”a perfect metaphor for the city’s own conflicted soul.
SOURCE: Bohiney News.
